Clock Bushing Systems

[OldTimers]

Hi,
I'm new to the forum and to Bobs courses and am engrossed in both!
Although it's been a hobby for me for a few years now I'm seriously considering doing a little part time work soon. I've used a hand bushing tool up to this point and would like to move up to a more productive bushing setup.
I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as to which bushing systems ie: American System, Bergeon, KWM, to use. Which seems to be the most practical and any differences they may have.

Any help will be appreciated,
John

[Bob Tascione]

Hi John,
I like the American System. It's the least expensive of the three bushing systems. It uses the same size reamers and bushings as the KWM. The American system doesn't offer as many different sizes as KWM but you can always fill in the size gaps with KWM bushings. Also I believe the American Bushings are the hardest of the three.

KWM is great but more expensive. Really good size selection though.

Bergeon offers great quality but is the most costly of the three. Offers the best range of outside diameters which is handy when removing as little brass from the plates is critical. KWM reamers won't work with this system.

All in all the American System can save a lot of money if you're doing a lot of bushings. It adds up pretty fast.

Hope this helps John,
Bob

[Marc Hildebrant]

Group,

With regard to the American system, what would be the correct bushing tool ?

Marc (New Member and Learning)

[Bob Tascione]

Hi Marc,
As far as I know the KWM reamers fit the American System bushings OD. This is the impression I've always been under. I've noticed recently though that some places like Butterworths offers bronze American bushings that can be used for either Bergeon or KWM. I don't know if those are just "bronze" bushings made in America or they are the "American System" bushings. I really don't know much about this topic and maybe someone else up here can help clear this up for us. Just to be on the safe side I would suggest specifying when ordering that you want "American System bushings" to be used with KWM reamers (if that's what you want to use).
Enjoy Marc,
Bob
.

[Marc Hildebrant]

Thanks for the info Bob.

Marc

[Marc Hildebrant]

Group,

I finally have time to get back into my clock hobby.....so, new questions.

I have a Sherline Mill that I bought from a neighbor. Can the Mill be used to help with installing clock bushings ?

Marc

[Bob Tascione]

Hi Marc,
I didn't realize you had posted this message after your previous post earlier that day. I assumed it was the same post which I had read shortly after you posted.
Yes you can use your Sherline mill for bushing. It will work great as you will have almost no spindle run out when using a collet.
Enjoy and sorry for missing this post Marc,
Bob

[Marc Hildebrant]

Bob,

Thanks for the info with regard to the Sherline Mill.

Could you point to the needed tools that I would need to buy to work with the Mill ?

Marc

[Bob Tascione]

Hi Marc,

Using a Sherline Mill for bushing can be very accurate.
You'll need a little basic tooling to get setup for it but not much actually.

First thing of course is to choose the type of bushing system you plan to use as discussed earlier in this thread, IE: Bergeon, KWM etc. You can purchase the reamers you'll need from Timesavers or other suppliers.

You'll need to purchase a collet to fit your reamer shank if you don't already have one.

You'll then need a way to secure the clock plate to the table for locating and reaming. Again you may already have these clamps since Sherline does include them in some of their packages.

You can choose from a few different types of clamps from Sherline. "L" Clamps are simple to use and straight forward. You can get sets that come with the "T" nuts and screws. See pics. below. Check them out at Sherline

Sherline also sells Step blocks and clamps. More versatile but can take a little more time to set up. You can see the "hold down set" here:

and how they are used with the step blocks here:

You'll need a couple of square or rectangular bars to lay the plate onto and clamp down on. If you're using "L" Clamps then you'll want something about the
thickness or a little less than the clamping height of the clamps. If it's thicker you can always put some spacers under the L clamp feet.

If you're using step blocks and clamps then height isn't really an issue since this is adjustable. Just want to make sure you're up high enough so that the reamer (or end mill) can clear the plate without danger of hitting the table.

If you plan to put the bushings into the plate while on the mill rather than waiting until the plate is removed from the table then you'll need to make a brass or steel bar that can fit through the hole in the spindle. A nice slip fit is preferable. The problem with this method is that you'll need to slide something under the hole to support the plate before driving the bushing in.

Locating original hole center: Unlike the bushing tool where the base is stationary and the plate must be un-clamped and moved into position for each hole, the mill has an X-Y table that allows for very precise locating. Using the tapered centering tool (should come with reamers) and magnification you can dial the hole in to exact position. Another way which works much better for me than the tapered tool is to use pin gauges. I'm not sure how much a set of these goes for now as I bought mine many years ago but they were fairly expensive back then. They are used for inspection work in machine shops and can be purchased from any machinery supply house. The tapered center will work fine though so don't sweat the pin gauges if you don't have them or don't want to spend on them right now.

Hope this helps Marc,
Bob

Sherline_clamp.jpg (27.53 KiB) Viewed 9222 times

[Marc Hildebrant]

Bob,

Thanks for the info.

Marc